Moroccan Vegetarian Chickpeas (Hummus Bidaoui)

If using dried chickpeas, plan ahead: rinse two cups dried chickpeas, place in large bowl, cover with plenty of cold water (chickpeas will double in size), and soak overnight or at least eight hours. Drain soaking water, transfer chickpeas to large pot, cover with fresh water by two inches, bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer gently for one to one and a half hours until tender but not mushy. Drain and set aside. If using canned chickpeas (more convenient), open three 15-ounce cans, drain thoroughly, and rinse under cold running water to remove excess sodium and canning liquid. Set aside. The chickpeas should be tender but still hold their shape - they'll soften slightly more during simmering in the sauce.

Heat quarter to half cup of olive oil in a large, deep skillet or pot over medium heat. Add one to two large onions (finely chopped or grated - grating creates smoother texture) and sauté for six to eight minutes, stirring occasionally, until very soft, translucent, and beginning to turn golden. The onions should break down and almost melt into the oil. Add six to eight minced garlic cloves and one tablespoon grated fresh ginger if using. Sauté for one to two minutes, stirring constantly, until fragrant but not browned - don't let the garlic burn or it will become bitter. This aromatic base is the foundation of the dish's flavor.

Add your spice blend to the softened aromatics: two teaspoons ground cumin, one tablespoon paprika, one teaspoon ground coriander, half a teaspoon turmeric, half a teaspoon ground ginger, quarter teaspoon cayenne or hot paprika (if using), and a pinch of cinnamon if desired. Stir constantly for one to two minutes, allowing the spices to bloom in the hot oil and become intensely fragrant. This blooming process is crucial - it activates the aromatic compounds in the spices and removes any raw flavor. The mixture should smell incredible and the spices should coat the onions evenly. If the mixture seems dry, add a bit more olive oil.

Add two to three tablespoons of tomato paste to the spiced aromatics and stir constantly for one to two minutes, cooking the paste to remove any raw flavor and deepen its color. Then add your tomatoes - either two 14-ounce cans of diced tomatoes with their juices, or two pounds of fresh tomatoes (peeled, seeded, and chopped). Stir well, breaking up any large tomato pieces with your spoon. Add one to one and a half teaspoons of salt, half a teaspoon of black pepper, and one to two cups of water or vegetable stock - start with one cup and add more if needed for desired consistency. If using preserved lemon, add the chopped rind now (one preserved lemon, rinsed, pulp discarded, rind finely chopped). Stir in half of your fresh herbs (quarter to half cup chopped cilantro and quarter cup parsley). Bring to a boil.

Once the sauce is boiling, add your prepared chickpeas (either the cooked dried chickpeas or the drained and rinsed canned chickpeas - about five to six cups total). Stir gently to coat the chickpeas evenly with the sauce. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain a gentle simmer. Partially cover the pot, leaving it slightly ajar to allow steam to escape. Simmer gently for twenty-five to thirty-five minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened considerably and reduced, coating the chickpeas richly. The chickpeas will absorb flavors during this simmering and become tender and flavorful. If the sauce becomes too thick, add water or stock in small amounts. If too thin, continue simmering uncovered to reduce. The final consistency should be thick and saucy but not dry - somewhere between soup and stew.

Once the chickpeas are tender and the sauce is thick and flavorful, taste and adjust seasoning. You'll likely need to add more salt - chickpeas absorb a lot and the dish should be well-seasoned and flavorful, not bland. Add more cumin if you want deeper earthiness, more cayenne for heat, or a squeeze of fresh lemon juice for brightness if not using preserved lemon. Stir in the remaining fresh herbs - quarter to half cup chopped cilantro and quarter cup chopped parsley - reserving a bit for garnish. Let the chickpeas rest off the heat for five to ten minutes before serving - this allows the flavors to settle and meld together. During resting, the sauce will thicken slightly more.

Spoon the hot chickpeas into serving bowls or a large serving dish. Drizzle with a bit of olive oil for sheen and richness. Garnish generously with the reserved fresh cilantro and parsley. If desired, add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice over the top for brightness. Serve hot with crusty bread, Moroccan khobz, or warm pita for dipping and soaking up the delicious sauce. Alternatively, serve over fluffy couscous, rice, or bulgur as a hearty main course. Moroccan chickpeas are also excellent served at room temperature as part of a mezze spread or vegetarian buffet.