Moroccan Souba Soup (Vermicelli Noodle Soup)

Begin by preparing all ingredients before starting to cook - this makes the process smooth and organized. If using chicken: rinse one and a half pounds of bone-in chicken pieces (thighs and drumsticks) under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. If using lamb: rinse one and a half pounds of bone-in lamb pieces under cold water and pat dry. Finely chop or grate one large onion. Chop two to three celery stalks including leaves into small pieces. Mince four to five garlic cloves. Grate two medium tomatoes directly into a bowl using the large holes of a box grater (discard skins), or chop finely. If using carrot and potato, dice into small one-centimeter cubes. Measure all spices. Prepare an herb bundle by tying large handfuls of fresh cilantro and parsley stems together with kitchen string. Crush a generous pinch of saffron threads and dissolve in two tablespoons of warm water - set aside. Break vermicelli noodles into two to three inch pieces if they are in long strands, or leave nest-shaped bundles whole for now.

Heat two tablespoons of olive oil and one tablespoon of butter in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot (at least six-quart capacity) over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the chicken pieces skin-side down or lamb pieces in a single layer - work in batches if necessary to avoid crowding. Brown on all sides for three to four minutes per side until golden and caramelized. This browning step is important for developing flavor depth - don't skip it. Remove browned meat to a plate. In the same pot, reduce heat to medium and add the chopped onion and celery. Sauté for five to six minutes, stirring occasionally, until very soft and the onion is translucent and beginning to turn golden. Add the minced garlic and cook for one minute, stirring constantly, until fragrant but not browned. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot - these are pure flavor.

Add your spice blend to the softened aromatics: one teaspoon ground cumin, half to one teaspoon ground ginger, half a teaspoon turmeric, half a teaspoon black pepper, and quarter teaspoon of ras el hanout if using. Stir constantly for one minute, allowing the spices to bloom in the hot oil and become intensely fragrant. The mixture should smell incredible and the spices should coat the onions and celery evenly. If the mixture seems dry, add a bit more olive oil. Add one to two tablespoons of tomato paste and stir constantly for one to two minutes until the paste darkens slightly and loses its raw flavor. Add the grated or chopped tomatoes and stir well, scraping up any bits from the bottom. Cook for three to four minutes until the tomatoes break down and begin to create a thick, fragrant sauce.

Return the browned meat to the pot along with any accumulated juices from the plate. Stir well to coat the meat with the tomato-spice mixture. Add the dissolved saffron water. Pour in eight to ten cups of water (or chicken stock for richer flavor) - enough to cover the meat generously by several inches. Add the herb bundle (tied cilantro and parsley stems), one and a half teaspoons of salt, and the diced carrots if using. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, then immediately reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Skim off any foam or scum that rises to the surface during the first ten to fifteen minutes - this creates a clearer, more refined broth. Partially cover the pot and simmer gently. For chicken: simmer thirty to forty minutes. For lamb: simmer sixty to seventy-five minutes. The meat should be very tender and nearly falling off the bone.

About fifteen minutes before the soup is ready, prepare the vermicelli. For best results and authentic Moroccan flavor, toast the vermicelli before adding to the soup. In a separate dry skillet over medium heat, add the vermicelli nests or broken strands (two to three cups). Toast, stirring constantly and attentively, for three to four minutes until the noodles turn golden brown and smell nutty and fragrant. Watch very carefully as they go from golden to burnt very quickly. The toasting adds a delicious nutty flavor and helps the noodles hold their texture better in the soup without becoming mushy. Remove from heat immediately when golden. Alternatively, skip toasting and add noodles directly to soup - still delicious but different texture. If the meat is done, remove it from the pot, shred the chicken from bones or leave lamb pieces intact, and return the meat to the broth.

Once the meat is tender, remove and discard the herb bundle. Remove the chicken pieces if using - once cool enough to handle, shred the meat off the bones into bite-sized pieces, discarding skin and bones. Return shredded chicken (or leave lamb pieces) to the pot. Taste the broth and adjust seasoning - add more salt, cumin, or black pepper as desired. The broth should be well-seasoned, golden, and aromatic. If using diced potato, add it now and simmer for ten to twelve minutes until tender. Bring the broth to a gentle boil and add the toasted (or untoasted) vermicelli noodles. Stir gently to distribute. Cook for three to five minutes only - just until noodles are tender but still have slight bite. They will continue to cook and absorb broth even after removing from heat, so slightly undercook. If the soup has become too thick from the noodles absorbing broth, add more hot water or stock to reach desired consistency.

Once the vermicelli is cooked to tender but still slightly firm, remove the pot from heat. Taste the soup one final time and adjust seasoning generously - soups require bold seasoning. Add more salt, a pinch more cumin, or a squeeze of fresh lemon juice if desired for brightness. Stir in three-quarters of your freshly chopped cilantro and parsley, reserving some for garnish. The fresh herbs should wilt slightly in the hot broth. Let the soup rest off the heat for three to five minutes - this allows the noodles to finish absorbing flavor and the flavors to settle and meld. During this resting time, the soup will thicken slightly as noodles continue absorbing broth.

Ladle the hot, steaming soup into bowls, ensuring each serving gets a generous amount of noodles, meat, and vegetables in every bowl. Drizzle each bowl with a small amount of good olive oil for richness and shine - this is traditional and important. Garnish each bowl generously with the reserved fresh cilantro and parsley. Serve immediately with crusty bread, Moroccan khobz, or warm baguette for dipping. During Ramadan, serve as the warming first course of iftar alongside dates and other traditional dishes. Some people like to squeeze a bit of fresh lemon juice over their bowl for brightness. The soup should be served piping hot - souba loses its magic as it cools and the noodles continue absorbing broth.